Legibility and Food Access

Returning to San Francisco from a trip to New York City, I ruminated on my first experience of staying in midtown in the city in which I was raised. The city is different, of course. Times Square has fulfilled its Blade Runner destiny, and blue Grecian “Greatest Coffee in the World” cups have been supplanted with those from Starbucks. What stayed with me, however, was a brief exchange with another attendee of the same conference for which I was in town. “Everything is so expensive” she lamented. “I see people with yogurts and sandwiches and other things that don’t seem to cost too much, but I don’t know where they get them.” “Oh, there’s plenty of stuff around here” I replied. “You just have to look.” 

3 minute read

March 2, 2012, 5:56 PM PST

By Lisa Feldstein


Returning to San Francisco from a trip to New York City, I
ruminated on my first experience of staying in midtown in the city in which I
was raised. The city is different, of course. Times Square has fulfilled its Blade
Runner
destiny, and blue Grecian "Greatest Coffee in the World" cups have
been supplanted with those from Starbucks. What stayed with me, however, was a
brief exchange with another attendee of the same conference for which I was in
town. "Everything is so expensive" she lamented. "I see people with yogurts and
sandwiches and other things that don't seem to cost too much, but I don't know
where they get them." "Oh, there's plenty of stuff around here" I replied. "You
just have to look." 

It was true. There was plenty. And because the landscape was
legible to me, I knew how and where to find it. Earlier that day I had gone
across the street to the Halal cart and gotten a fantastic falafel sandwich and
a beverage for under $5.  I knew to go to
that stand, and not its rival across the street, because it had a long line of
people who were waiting patiently for items from their brief menu of beef,
falafel, and hummus. In the same block, but set back from the street, was a
small deli where one could get fresh sandwiches, salads, and snacks. A couple
of blocks away was what New Yorkers call a "Korean Deli". These ubiquitous
markets are run by Korean families, open 24 hours a day, and offer gigantic
salad bars, sushi, fruit, vegetables, and packaged ready-to-eat foods, among
other things.  A block further and there
was a supermarket (New York-sized; compact and crowded, no sprawling aisles or
even parking). And the "drug stores" on every block might still have
pharmacies, but they are well hidden today behind the refrigerated dairy cases,
the fresh produce, and the aisles of canned and boxed foods.

I was surprised, at first, that this conferee hadn't checked
out the Halal food stand across the street. But of course, street food isn't
part of the American landscape, and probably looks untrustworthy and unsavory
to visitors who are seeking nourishment rather than a "New York experience".
And without knowing what to look for, the deli across the street probably
didn't look accessible.

I've encountered the same illegibility when visiting other
cities. If I'm not seeking a familiar chain, how do I find food? How do I know
where to go, what to purchase, and how it is consumed locally? How do I order
from the menu of a cuisine I've never encountered? How do I make this food
landscape legible? 

Taken a step further, how does someone in a neighborhood
without supermarkets learn how to prepare fresh food? How does the newcomer
learn to understand the produce of another culture, if that is what is
available to them?

What food landscapes have you found legible and illegible?


Lisa Feldstein

Lisa Feldstein is a Doctoral Candidate at the Department of City and Regional Planning at UC Berkeley. She is a 2012 Robert & Patricia Switzer Foundation Fellow, a 2012 Fellow at the Institute for the Study of Societal Issues, the 2010 recipient of The Robert A. Catlin/David W. Long Memorial Scholarship, and the 2009 recipient of the Friesen Fellowship for Leadership in Undergraduate Education. Lisa is formerly the Senior Policy Director with the Public Health Law Program, in which capacity she directed the organization's Land Use and Health Program.

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